There’s a rhythm to returning to the same wild place over and over—each visit layering new memories over old ones, like moss growing on stone. For me, that place is Voyageurs National Park, tucked away in the watery wilderness of northern Minnesota. Over the years, I’ve explored it several times by powerboat, pitched tents on remote islands, and even drifted through its lakes aboard a houseboat. Each experience has etched its own chapter into my story.
Powerboats and Island Campsites: The Classic Voyageurs Experience
Most of our visits have been powered by, well, powerboats. There’s no better way to navigate the sprawling lakes—Crane, Kabetogama, Sand Point, and Namakan—than skimming across the water with the wind in your face and a map full of island campsites to choose from.
We’d load up the boat with gear, pick a secluded site, and set up camp for a few days. There’s something deeply satisfying about arriving at your own little island, unloading coolers and tents, and watching the sun dip below the horizon as loons call in the distance. Campfires crackled, naps in a hammock, fish sizzled in the pan, and the stars overhead felt impossibly close.
The Joys and Challenges of Camping
Camping in Voyageurs is a blend of rugged and serene. Some sites are tucked into quiet coves, others perched on rocky bluffs with panoramic views. We’ve weathered sudden summer storms, swatted more mosquitoes than I care to count, and woken up to fog so thick it felt like the lake had swallowed the world.
But we’ve also had mornings where the water was glass, the coffee was hot, and the only sounds were birdsong and the gentle lapping of waves. Those are the moments that stick.
The Houseboat Adventure: A Floating Cabin in the Wilderness
One year, we decided to switch things up and rent a houseboat. It was a game-changer. Imagine waking up in a cozy bed, stepping out onto a deck surrounded by water, and sipping coffee as the shoreline drifts by. Having a cabin that moved with us was an unforgettable experience.
We explored hidden bays, anchored near sandy beaches, and even docked at some of our favorite campsites just for a picnic. Everyone loved sliding off the back into the lake, and evenings were spent playing cards inside while the gentle rocking lulled us to sleep. Trivia night over the marine band radio is still talked about today.
It was a more luxurious way to experience Voyageurs, but still deeply connected to the wild. No cell service, no distractions—just water, trees, and time.
A Stop at Kettle Falls: History at the Border
One of the most memorable stops we’ve made was at Kettle Falls, tucked near the eastern edge of the Kabetogama Peninsula right on the Minnesota–Canadian border. Accessible only by water, this historic site is home to the Kettle Falls Hotel, a red-roofed lodge with a colorful past dating back to 1913.
We docked the boat and wandered up to the hotel, where the air smelled of pine and the vibe was pure backwoods charm. The hotel’s bar famously tilts—yes, the floor actually slopes—and the walls are lined with stories of lumberjacks, trappers, and bootleggers who once passed through. We watched boats navigate the dam, and soaked in the sense of timelessness that hangs over the place.
It felt like stepping into a living piece of history, and it added a whole new layer to our understanding of the park.
Why We Keep Coming Back
Voyageurs isn’t just a park—it’s a place that grows with you. Each visit has felt different: some were adventurous, some restful, some chaotic in the best way. But all of them were unforgettable.
Whether you’re zipping across the lake in a powerboat, roasting marshmallows under the stars, or drifting in a houseboat with nowhere to be, Voyageurs has a way of reminding you what matters. It’s wild, it’s quiet, and it’s waiting.
Kyle Skov, Owatonna, MN 
Leave a comment